2020 Far North Queensland
 

Rockhampton - Wed 15/07/2020

2020 Far North Queensland
We stay overnight with Joan and Roger and depart next morning at 07:00. It is motorway for the first 150kms to Gympie but then it becomes a single lane country road for the rest of the trip north. For a while, there is no traffic and we make good time. The surrounding country side is mostly flat and uninteresting, so I spend some time looking up trivia on my iPad: ・Queensland   1.853 Km ²      ・Alaska 1.718 Km ²      ・ Texas 0.696 Km ² After 350 Kms we stop for lunch at Gin Gin. Gin Gin is 50 Kms due west of Bundaberg. We find a nice little cafe, uncrowded, for coffee and a sandwich.
Jenni takes over and drives for the final 300 kms into Rockhampton, our destination for the day, a distance of 650 kms. The frustrations begin. Following campervans over single lanes while "roadworks" are carried out. This is a torment for the rest of the way north and all the way back again to Gympie. We cross into the Tropic of Capricorn just south of Rockhampton at 23°26'. We get into Rockhampton in the early evening and check into our motel. It is a dreadful dump - our second crappy motel in a row. Little do we know that worse is to come.
Our first impressions of Rockhampton are poor but we realise later that we've checked in on the main highway through town. We are in the "dry tropics" now and beef cattle is an important industry in this area with Rockhampton promoting itself as The Beef Capital of Australia. A 'B' Double cattle carrier makes its noisy way through town. The Capricorn district is the traditional home of the Darumbal Aboriginal people. The British settlement of the area began in 1853 when the Archer brothers arrived in the Rockhampton area seeking grazing lands. Industries and services in the Rockhampton area include transport, manufacturing, mining, energy and tourism.
Sugar production started in 1861 when the first white squatters moved into North Queensland. The settlers wanted cheap black labour and found a nearby source on the islands of the South Pacific Ocean. An estimated 62,500 Islanders were brought to Queensland between 1863 and 1904. While most Islanders came voluntarily, some were kidnapped (blackbirded) and brought over illegally. Others were persuaded to come by coercion, force or deception. It was slavery but never called that. A significant gold deposit at Mount Morgan was discovered in the 1880s and Rockhampton became the main port through which the gold was channelled. The Shoalwater Bay Training Area (SWBTA) is a permanent 4,000 km² Australian Defence Forces' (ADF) permanent military training facility based near Rockhampton. The SWBTA's scale and coastal location allow joint services (Army, Navy & Airforce) exercises. The Singaporean Armed Forces (SAF) uses the area independently and the ADF for joint ADF/US Armed Forces and ADF/SAF exercises.
Rockhampton is quite a large country town with a population of around 80,000 people. This is a truly lovely town with many of its historic buildings dating from the gold rush era. The town is on the Fitzroy River approximately 45 kms from the confluence of the river and the Coral Sea. Rockhampton has a north and south side with three bridges connecting the two sides, one for trains and two for vehicles and people. Cattle House is a heritage listed former bank building at 180 Quay Street. It was built from 1903 to 1904 and is currently owned by the Cattleman's Union. It was added to the Queensland Heritage Register in 1992.
This is the Boathouse Restaurant but it is currently closed because of Covid-19. This is the Fitzroy Bridge that leads to the Northern side of the city. The setting is very tranquil right now as sunset looms. This is looking South Easterly down the river towards the Coral Sea. The parks and gardens of the riverfront are immaculately maintained. We really like the mood lighting throughout this part of town. The town has an air of affluence about it.
The Criterion Hotel is a heritage listed hotel in Quay Street. It was built in 1890 and added to the Queensland Heritage Register in 1992. I think Jenni might be trying to take the mickey out of me. Despite Covid-19, this business is open but with the usual registration and social distancing requirements. We note that Queenslanders are very compliant with Covid restrictions and the state is almost Covid-free. Meanwhile, a disaster unfolds in Victoria. An unfortunate sign of the times.
From here, the Fitzroy River runs to the North West and we see a little bit of the sun setting in the West. We find a great (but expensive) restaurant in Quay Street called Pacino's and decide this is a great place for dinner. Jenni has fillet steak . . . . . . while I have prime rib smothered in peppercorn cream sauce.
It is expensive at $44 but worth the money because it is so good. From the restaurant, we can see Jupiter aligning with Saturn - the Great Conjunction. These alignments occur every 19.6 years. Everything about tonight is magical. We head back to our motel in the industrial part of town. This sign is advertising house and land packages for just over $400,000 - O.M.G. That's very cheap by Sydney standards. The streets are empty and this shopping centre is mostly closed.
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